Sint Maarten was never high on my Caribbean travel list. In fact, this vacation happened almost accidentally. A friend from Trinidad mentioned he was traveling there with a group of friends and casually suggested we meet him on the island. Within a week or two, we had booked our flights and accommodations.
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At first, I wasn’t particularly excited. Sint Maarten and Saint Martin are not destinations I hear discussed as often as Jamaica, Aruba, The Bahamas, or Turks and Caicos. I arrived with an open mind, willing to embrace whatever the island had to offer but without especially high expectations.
By the end of the trip, I didn’t want to leave.
This article is not intended to be a comprehensive travel guide to Sint Maarten and Saint Martin. Instead, it is a Caribbean food and travel memoir woven together with practical travel tips, family moments, conversations with locals, beautiful beaches, roadside food, stylish beach clubs, and the meals that stayed with me long after I returned home.
Our trip was not sponsored in any way. Every flight, hotel stay, meal, excursion, and experience was paid for entirely by us, and every opinion shared here reflects our personal experience.
It is also the first in what I hope will become a series exploring the islands of the Caribbean through food, culture, local traditions, and everyday moments—not just recipes. As Cooking With Ria continues to grow, I want to share not only what we cook in the Caribbean but also the places, people, and stories that shape our cuisine.
What I discovered in Sint Maarten was an island with room to breathe.
An island where the aroma of roadside barbecue drifts through the air just minutes from elegant beach clubs.
Where one meal arrives in a simple plastic takeout container balanced on your lap while you’re stuck in bridge traffic, and another is beautifully plated beside handcrafted cocktails overlooking impossibly turquoise water.
And somehow, both experiences feel equally, unmistakably Caribbean.
For me, Sint Maarten wasn’t about checking attractions off a list. It was about slowing down, talking to people, discovering local food, and appreciating an island that never seemed to be in a hurry.
Where Is Sint Maarten and Why Does It Have Two Sides?
Before this trip, I knew very little about Sint Maarten beyond its famous airport landings and beautiful beaches. What I quickly discovered is that it is one of the most fascinating islands in the Caribbean.
Located in the northeastern Caribbean, east of Puerto Rico and part of the Leeward Islands, Saint Martin is the smallest inhabited island in the world shared by two nations. The southern half, known as Sint Maarten(known as the Dutch side), is an autonomous country within the Kingdom of the Netherlands, while the northern half, Saint Martin, is an overseas collectivity of France(known as the French Side). Since the signing of the Treaty of Concordia in 1648, the island has been peacefully divided, allowing visitors to drive from one side to the other without border checkpoints or passport controls.
Although the Dutch and French sides each have their own government, currency preferences, and distinct personality, they are connected by a shared Caribbean spirit. The Dutch side is known for its lively resorts, nightlife, casinos, and bustling tourism, while the French side offers a slower pace with charming cafés, beach clubs, bakeries, and a reputation for exceptional dining. Together, they create an island where Caribbean warmth meets European influence, making Sint Maarten and Saint Martin feel like two destinations wrapped into one unforgettable vacation.
For our family, exploring both sides became one of the highlights of the trip. One morning we were enjoying Johnny cakes and roadside barbecue on the Dutch side; by afternoon we were sipping coffee and eating lobster rolls overlooking the beach on the French side. That blend of cultures, cuisines, and experiences is part of what makes this little island so special.
Arriving at Simpson Bay Resort
After a morning of travel from New York, we finally arrived at Simpson Bay Resort ready to unpack, unwind, and settle into island life.
For lunch, we enjoyed the grilled chicken and turkey sandwiches we had packed from a local bagel shop in Queens before boarding our flight—a habit that has saved us both time and money on more than one vacation.
Our villa was modest rather than luxurious, but it suited our family perfectly. There was a king-size bed for my husband and me, two pull-down beds in the living area for our young adults, and, most importantly, a full kitchen complete with a refrigerator, stove, and dishwasher.
For me, having a kitchen while traveling is more than just a convenience—it provides flexibility. When you’re vacationing with young adults, breakfast doesn’t always happen at breakfast time. While everyone else is getting dressed and putting on makeup, which can easily take a couple of hours, I can fry an egg, toast a slice of bread, enjoy an avocado, or heat up leftovers without having to wait.
The large refrigerator also proved invaluable throughout the week. We stored bottled water, drinks, and leftovers from restaurants so nothing went to waste. More than once, dinner became the next day’s snack, and after one particularly exhausting day on the water, I even cooked a simple pot of chicken and rice in the villa using groceries we had purchased locally.
That flexibility not only helped us save money but also made the vacation feel far more relaxed.
After unpacking, we took some time to explore the resort and admire the ocean views. One of the first things I noticed was how peaceful everything felt. The resort wasn’t particularly busy during our stay, and that quieter atmosphere became something I appreciated more with each passing day.
For dinner, we decided to stay on the property and eat at one of the resort’s restaurants. We ordered burgers, fries, wings, and Caesar salad—nothing elaborate, but after a long day of airports, luggage, and travel, it was exactly what we wanted.
Looking back, those first few hours at Simpson Bay Resort quietly set the tone for the rest of our vacation. It wasn’t about luxury or extravagance. It was about comfort, convenience, and having the freedom to experience the island at our own pace.
Mullet Bay Beach and Kalatua
The following morning began with the complimentary breakfast buffet at the resort before we headed off to explore the island in our rental car.
Eventually we found ourselves at Mullet Bay Beach, where the turquoise water and powdery white sand made it easy to understand why so many visitors return year after year.
As soon as we arrived at the parking lot, I struck up a conversation with a friendly local named Denzel. The parking area sat right beside Rosie’s Snack Bar, and he immediately pointed out that we could rent two beach chairs and an umbrella for $30 USD. We told him we would come back for them later.
Instead, Denzel was determined to convince us to stay for lunch.
He proudly walked me over to a small hut where barbecue was cooking over an open flame, giving me a quick tour of what was on offer. Everything smelled wonderful, and for a moment I considered changing our plans.
My daughter, however, had her heart set on Kalatua, the Mediterranean-inspired beach club we had originally come to find. Like many young travelers, she had discovered it through social media and online reviews. The only problem was that it appeared fully booked, and we didn’t have a reservation.
When we mentioned this to Denzel, he kindly called the restaurant for us. They assured him transportation would be sent to collect our family from the parking lot.
So we waited.
And waited.
Nearly twenty minutes passed in the blazing afternoon heat with no sign of a pickup.
Eventually we decided to make our own way there.
There was a perfectly good boardwalk offering shade for much of the journey, but somehow someone—I still don’t know whose grand idea it was—suggested we walk across the sand instead. The midday sun was relentless, the sand was scorching underfoot, and before long it became every man for himself.
I was the last one to stagger into the restaurant.
Thankfully, it was worth the effort.
Kalatua is everything you would expect from a modern beach club. The décor is chic and contemporary, the setting overlooking Mullet Bay is stunning, and a live DJ keeps the music flowing, creating a fun, energetic atmosphere without being overwhelming. Every few minutes, a model emerged from the on-site boutique showcasing the latest resort wear, adding to the stylish, social-media-worthy vibe that has made the restaurant so popular.
We quickly realized we were probably the most underdressed guests there.
Having spent the morning casually driving around the island, we arrived in casual beachwear while many diners looked ready for a fashion shoot. Despite that, the staff couldn’t have made us feel more welcome, and we were completely comfortable from the moment we sat down.
For our appetizer, we shared the Kalatua platter featuring panko shrimp, grilled octopus, hummus, warm pita bread, Cesar salad, and other Mediterranean-inspired bites.
We followed that with a whole grilled sea bass for two that the chef expertly deboned tableside, grilled shrimp, and a refreshing watermelon lemonade. We also ended the meal with dessert(lava cake), which was every bit as enjoyable as the courses before it.
The presentation was beautiful, colorful, and clearly given great attention. The seafood was fresh, the service attentive, and the overall experience polished from beginning to end. The whole grilled sea bass was particularly memorable.
As for the food itself, I would describe it as good rather than exceptional. In my opinion, what you’re really paying for (very pricey as you will see below) is the complete experience: the location, the ambience, the music, the service, and the overall atmosphere. It is undoubtedly one of the island’s trendier dining destinations, attracting many younger visitors who come as much for the photographs and social media content as they do for the meal itself.
And if I’m being honest, that’s exactly why my daughters wanted to go.
After seeing so much about Kalatua online, they wanted to experience it for themselves.
As we relaxed over lunch, I found myself thinking that perhaps on our next trip we should stay somewhere closer to Mullet Bay and dine there more often.
Then again, knowing how indecisive I can be, perhaps not—especially after finally seeing the bill my husband quietly paid while the girls and I were busy browsing the boutique and spending even more money. On second thought, Simpson Bay may be the better choice after all!
Our stay in Simpson Bay put us within easy reach of almost everything we wanted to see and do, and that convenience proved invaluable throughout the week.
Looking back, that lunch perfectly reflected the contrast we would experience during our vacation—moving effortlessly between upscale beach clubs and simple roadside eateries, each offering its own version of Caribbean hospitality.
Rosie’s Snack Bar and the Conversations That Stayed With Me
Back at Mullet Bay, my daughters settled under rented chairs and an umbrella while I wandered through the beach area, something I almost always do whenever I travel.
I love talking with local people.
While waiting for my family, Natasha and Candy talked me into trying what they promised would be a quick sample foot massage. Before I knew it, the “sample” had turned into a relaxing leg and foot massage using fresh aloe vera instead of massage oil, while they explained its cooling and healing properties. It was exactly what I needed after walking in the Caribbean sun, and by the time it was over, I found myself wishing I had booked the full-body massage instead.
What I enjoyed just as much as the massage was our conversation. They shared their stories of migrating from Jamaica, spoke lovingly about their children, and described the daily challenges of earning a living on the beach and putting food on the table. I was their first customer of the day, and I left not only feeling more relaxed but also grateful for the opportunity to connect with them and hear a small part of their lives.
Earlier, I bought a swim cover-up from an older woman and ended up spending quite a while talking with her.
She shared stories about her family, explaining that one daughter was studying in Holland while another lived in Curaçao. Her husband worked as a taxi driver, and before leaving home that morning she had prepared salmon, broccoli, and fried plantain for his lunch.
She also told me about her own eating habits—light breakfasts, fruit during the day, plenty of water, and porridge in the evenings rather than heavy dinners.
I’m always fascinated by how older Caribbean people live and eat, and conversations like these often stay with me longer than the restaurants themselves.
Before leaving, I ordered grilled chicken, grilled ribs, and rice and peas from Rosie’s Snack Bar, packed neatly into a simple plastic takeout container.
As luck would have it, the bridge opened on our drive back to Simpson Bay and traffic slowed to a crawl. What might have been an inconvenience became one of my favorite memories of the trip as I sat in the car enjoying what tasted like genuine home cooking.
The rice and peas reminded me of my mother’s recipe, and the grilled chicken was perfectly seasoned and cooked.
When my sister later asked which restaurant had been my favorite, my answer surprised even me.
Rosie’s Snack Bar.
Not because it was the fanciest, but because it felt the most authentic.
Captain D’s Roadside Grill and the Search for Sint Maarten’s National Dish
Later that evening we visited Captain D’s Roadside Grill, where we ordered stewed oxtail, spicy noodles, barbecue chicken, jerk wings, ribs, rice and peas, Johnny cakes, accras, and stuffed crab cakes.
The accras stood out immediately—light, crisp, well seasoned, and served piping hot.
Captain D’s Roadside Grill and the Search for Sint Maarten’s National Dish
By Sunday afternoon, I had become almost obsessed with answering one question:
“What is the national dish of Sint Maarten?”
Earlier that day, after brunch at Rainbow Café and a refreshing dip at Anse Marcel Beach, we had driven around the French side searching for a local restaurant that served what several online articles described as the island’s national dish. Unfortunately, being a Sunday, almost everywhere we stopped was closed.
Determined not to leave the island without finding an answer, I asked my family to head back to the resort while I made one final stop at Captain D’s Roadside Grill.
As soon as I arrived, I was warmly greeted by a gracious, impeccably dressed woman. We struck up a conversation, and I explained that I had traveled from New York, that I write about Caribbean food, and that I had spent the better part of the week asking locals the same question:
“What would you say is the national dish of Sint Maarten?”
She paused for a moment before explaining that there really isn’t one single national dish. Years ago, many families relied on saltfish, conch, rice and peas, and boil provisions, while today’s cuisine reflects the many Caribbean cultures that have made Sint Maarten home. Rather than being represented by one signature meal, she believes the island’s culinary identity is expressed through many different dishes.
I listened carefully before asking one final question.
“If you were preparing one plate that best represents Sint Maarten, what would you serve?”
Without hesitation, she smiled and replied, “I’ll make you a plate.”
As we continued chatting, I asked whether she owned the restaurant. She smiled and told me that she did. Before I found a table, I thanked her for taking the time to speak with me and asked if she would mind sharing her name so I could mention her in this article.
Brenda Arrundell.
A few minutes later, Brenda brought over a freshly made Johnny cake along with a cold glass of sorrel made from the island’s national flower. Sweet, cold, and wonderfully refreshing, it was exactly what I needed after spending the afternoon in the sun.
Not long afterward, she returned with a beautiful plate of lightly curried conch served with rice and peas, macaroni pie, and salad.
I immediately noticed how delicate the curry was. Unlike the richer curries I often prepare at home, this one was light enough to allow the tender conch to remain the star of the dish. The conch itself was tender with a pleasant, slightly chewy texture that reminded me somewhat of calamari. The macaroni pie reminded me very much of the version we make in Trinidad, and after tasting the Johnny cake, I couldn’t resist asking Brenda about the ingredients.
She smiled and listed them: flour, baking powder, salt, butter, and water.
Exactly the same ingredients we use to make Trinidad’s fried bake.
I smiled. Once again, I was reminded that although each Caribbean island has its own identity, many of our traditional recipes share the same roots. What we call a fried bake in Trinidad is a Johnny cake in Sint Maarten, made with the very same simple ingredients.
As I finished my meal and thanked Brenda once again, I realized I had finally found what I had been searching for all week.
It wasn’t simply the national dish of Sint Maarten.
Brenda hadn’t just prepared me a delicious lunch. She had taken the time to answer my many questions, share her perspective on the island’s food traditions, and help me understand that the story of Sint Maarten’s cuisine is far richer than any single dish.
As I made my way back to the resort, I realized that the most memorable meals are rarely just about what’s on the plate. They’re about the people willing to share their stories, preserve their traditions, and welcome a curious traveler into their world, even if only for a little while.
Boat Tour to Anguilla: One of the Highlights of Our Trip
Saturday turned out to be one of the most memorable days of our entire vacation.
We had booked a full-day catamaran excursion to Anguilla with Boomerang Boat Tours for approx $150 per person, plus a $25 government fee, and after hearing that passports were required, we made sure to pack them before leaving the villa that morning.
The boat departed from Simpson Bay Marina around 9:30 a.m. carrying a lively group of travelers who, by the end of the day, would feel more like old friends than strangers.
As we cruised across the turquoise Caribbean Sea toward Anguilla, I settled into my seat and simply enjoyed the ride. My husband and daughters were looking forward to swimming and snorkeling, but I was perfectly content taking in the scenery from the boat. I’ve never been much of a swimmer, so for me, the joy was in watching the water change from deep sapphire blue to incredible shades of turquoise as we approached each stop.
The itinerary changes depending on the weather and sea conditions, and on our trip the captain selected three beautiful locations around Anguilla. We visited several bays, each offering crystal-clear water and postcard-worthy views.
At every stop, passengers jumped into the sea to swim, snorkel, paddleboard, or simply float while enjoying some of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean. I happily remained on the catamaran, watching my family enjoy themselves while taking in the scenery from the deck.
Around midday, the crew served lunch, and it was surprisingly good. The barbecue consisted of grilled curry chicken skewers, grilled garlic shrimp skewers, Greek pasta salad, and garlic bread, with both hot sauce and barbecue sauce available on the side.
Later in the afternoon, after another stop in the water, fresh tropical fruit was served followed by brownies for dessert. Several passengers reached for the hot sauce again, adding it to their fruit to make a quick Caribbean-style chow, which immediately reminded me of home.
What stood out to me most, however, wasn’t the food or even the spectacular beaches.
It was the kindness of the people onboard.
As the catamaran picked up speed between stops, a few passengers became seasick. Without hesitation, complete strangers checked on them, offered assistance, and made sure they were comfortable. I had packed ginger cookies from New York and shared them with several people in the hope that they would help ease the nausea–it did!.
By the time we returned to Simpson Bay shortly after 5 p.m., I was completely exhausted.
Instead of heading out to another restaurant, I did what comes naturally to me. While I took a shower, my husband put a package of fresh chicken legs to boil. I quickly blended scallions, garlic, and onion into a simple green seasoning, added it to the pot with black pepper, butter, salt, and a cup of rice, and let everything cook until tender.
Served with a handful of fresh arugula, that simple chicken and rice dinner became one of my favorite meals of the entire trip.
After spending the day exploring Anguilla’s beautiful coastline, sharing food with strangers, and watching my family make memories in the water, it was the perfect way to end an unforgettable day.
Sunday on the French Side at the Rainbow Café and Anse Marcel Beach
Sunday began much the way many mornings at the villa did.
Knowing it could take my daughters a while to get ready, I made myself breakfast first—an egg, avocado, and toasted a slice of whole-grain bread that I had brought from New York. By the time everyone else was ready to leave, breakfast had practically become lunch(brunch).
Our destination was Rainbow Café on the French side of the island.
Parking proved to be a bit of a challenge, with my husband eventually finding a space some distance away and walking back to meet us.
For brunch we ordered lobster rolls, poached eggs, Deluxe platter with French toast with came with orange juice, regular tea, matcha and almond cold brew latte. I particularly enjoyed sampling the French toast from my husband’s plate along with my lobster roll. It was so delicious, I ordered one to go–they did not have it separately on the menu but still agreed to get it packed up for me.
The food was good and beautifully presented, but for me the true appeal of Rainbow Café wasn’t necessarily what arrived on the plate.
It was the setting. Perched directly on the beach with stylish décor, music, comfortable seating, and beautiful ocean views, the restaurant has become something of a destination in itself. It felt like the kind of place where people gathered not only to eat but also to celebrate, socialize, and capture memories through photographs and videos.
On the downside, the portions were surprisinly small and the price on the higher end. As my husband wisely remarked during the meal, “You’re paying for the view.”
And I couldn’t disagree.
After brunch, we drove to Anse Marcel Beach, where I unexpectedly found myself wading into the crystal-clear water fully clothed. With only a handful of people scattered along the shoreline, it felt almost as though we had the beach to ourselves. Sometimes it’s the unplanned moments that become the most memorable.
Later that afternoon, we drove around searching for local restaurants serving what many articles described as the island’s national dish, only to discover that many businesses and even pharmacies had already closed for Sunday.
We did, however, stumble upon a local grocery store where prices were significantly lower (Hope Market) than those near our resort—a discovery that would later become one of my biggest money-saving tips for future visitors.
Sunday Evening at Avantika
One thing you should know about our family vacations is that I wasn’t the one choosing most of the restaurants.
That responsibility belonged almost entirely to my daughters—especially my eldest—who researches every stop long before we arrive. She reads reviews, watches videos and reels, studies menus, and pores over photos until she’s convinced she’s found the perfect place. Beautiful décor(aesthetic is her favorite word), great ambience, and outstanding reviews matter far more to her than the price tag.
I’m the practical one. While I enjoy a nice meal as much as anyone else, I’m also mindful of the overall vacation budget. My philosophy is that you don’t have to eat at expensive restaurants every day to have an exceptional trip. I’d rather balance a few splurges with local spots where the food is just as memorable but far easier on the wallet.
That’s exactly what we did throughout our week on the island.
One afternoon we enjoyed an elegant lunch at Kalatua overlooking Mullet Bay Beach, while another meal I found myself perfectly happy eating grilled chicken, grilled ribs, and rice and peas from Rosie’s Snack Bar out of a simple plastic takeout container. Both meals were satisfying in completely different ways, and I wouldn’t trade either experience.
On Sunday evening, my daughters had narrowed our dinner options down to two restaurants with outstanding reviews: Avantika, a Thai restaurant in Simpson Bay, and a French restaurant nearby named Pardon My French.
By then, however, my eldest daughter was absolutely famished. Her last meal had been around noon, it was approaching 8 p.m., and we all agreed that Thai food would likely be prepared and served more quickly.
It turned out to be the right decision.
From the moment we sat down, our waitress, Sakshi, was warm, attentive, and genuinely welcoming. She made us feel comfortable, answered our questions with patience, and ensured everything arrived promptly.
The atmosphere was relaxed and inviting, and before long our table was filled with drunken noodles, traditional Thai fried rice with chicken, and a rich red duck curry. To start, we shared shrimp and crab wontons, fried wings, and fried calamari, all accompanied by a vibrant green pepper sauce that I highly recommend trying.
One of my daughters ordered an Amaretto Sour while the rest of us shared a variety of drinks around the table.
What impressed me almost as much as the quality of the food was the portion size. Three entrées and three appetizers comfortably fed the five of us, making the overall value far better than we had expected.
Although I had already eaten earlier in the evening, by the time the dishes arrived my appetite had returned with full force. I thoroughly enjoyed the meal and would happily rate it a 9 out of 10. My eldest daughter, our unofficial restaurant critic for the trip and Thai food enthusiast, was slightly more conservative, giving Avantika an 8.3 out of 10.
Looking back, that dinner perfectly reflected the balance we struck throughout the vacation.
We experienced stylish beach clubs, highly rated restaurants, trendy cafés, roadside grills, and local snack bars. We enjoyed meals prepared by acclaimed chefs and others cooked by everyday people serving honest, flavorful food.
Experiencing both sides of that spectrum gave us a far richer appreciation for Sint Maarten and Saint Martin than if we had stayed exclusively in one world or the other.
Monday and Tuesday: Slowing Down and Simply Enjoying the Island
By Monday and Tuesday, we had shifted into vacation mode.
There was no rush to check another attraction off a list or drive from one side of the island to the other. Instead, we decided to enjoy the simple pleasure of staying close to the resort and spending time by the beach.
Most of both days were spent at Simpson Bay Resort, where we found a comfortable spot overlooking the water and watched the boats come and go while enjoying the warm Caribbean breeze.
Lunch was just as relaxed.
From the beach bar, we ordered shrimp ceviche, chicken burgers, and cocktails, taking our time and appreciating the fact that there was nowhere else we needed to be.
Monday evening, we stayed in the villa and finished the leftovers we had accumulated throughout the week. Thanks to the large refrigerator in our room, nothing went to waste. In fact, being able to save restaurant meals for another day was one of the unexpected benefits of staying somewhere with a full kitchen.
Tuesday followed much the same pattern.
After another leisurely day by the beach, we had dinner at the Mexican restaurant on the resort property—the same restaurant where we enjoyed the complimentary breakfast buffet each morning.
My daughter ordered the burrito bowl, while my other daughter chose the chicken Alfredo fettuccine. Earlier that day, I had prepared another batch of chicken and rice in the villa to pack for our trip home, so by dinnertime I wasn’t particularly hungry and opted for a simple Caesar salad instead.
As much as I enjoy discovering new restaurants while traveling, there always comes a point when I begin craving familiar, home-cooked flavors.
Perhaps that’s the Trinidadian in me.
As a food blogger and someone who cooks almost every day, restaurant meals can certainly be enjoyable, but they rarely replace the comfort of something made in your own kitchen.
Looking back, those quieter days at the resort were just as meaningful as our excursions.
There were no elaborate plans, no long drives, and no schedules to keep—just good food, family conversations, beautiful ocean views, and the chance to slow down enough to appreciate where we were.
Sometimes that’s exactly what a vacation should be.
Departure Day and One Last Lesson About Sint Maarten
Before we knew it, our week in Sint Maarten had come to an end.
After enjoying one final breakfast at the resort buffet, we packed our bags, checked out around 9 a.m., and made our way to the airport for our noon flight home.
The drive to the airport turned into one last opportunity to learn about the island from someone who called it home.
Our taxi driver, Jamai, was warm, friendly, and more than happy to answer my endless questions about local food and traditions. By then, I had spent the better part of the week asking anyone willing to chat the same question:
“What would you say is the national dish of Sint Maarten?”
Every person had given me a slightly different answer.
Some mentioned grilled chicken and Johnny cakes, others pointed to conch, while still others insisted on saltfish or local soups.
So, naturally, I asked Jamai the same question.
His answer ended up being one of the most insightful conversations of the entire trip.
The Significance of Johnny Cakes and the Search for Sint Maarten’s National Dish
I mentioned to Jamai that several articles I had read online identified callaloo soup as the national dish of Sint Maarten.
He politely disagreed.
While he acknowledged that callaloo soup is certainly eaten on the island, he explained that it isn’t something most locals would consider the defining dish of Sint Maarten today.
Instead, he immediately pointed to fried fish or stewed fish served with rice and peas, potato salad, coleslaw, and fried plantains as meals that better represent local cuisine. He also mentioned conch and dumpling soup and wilks soup, hearty broths made with dumplings, carrots, potatoes, yam, or sweet potato.
Another favorite, he explained, is pigtail soup with red beans, thickened with provisions such as yam, cassava, sweet potato, dumplings, and kidney beans. Chicken soup is also commonly enjoyed, especially when someone has the flu or simply wants something nourishing that isn’t too heavy.
Then he shared something that stayed with me.
The Significance of Johnny Cakes
“Johnny cake is for sustenance,” he explained.
Families make it all year long, but especially during hurricane season when bakeries may be closed for days. Whether baked or fried, Johnny cakes are eaten for breakfast, alongside dinner, or simply as a light snack after lunch.
Listening to him, I couldn’t help but think of the fry bake many of us grew up eating in Trinidad. The similarities are unmistakable, and like so many traditional Caribbean foods, it serves as an inexpensive, filling staple that has sustained generations of families.
Our conversation drifted naturally to fishing and harvesting from the sea.
Jamai explained that wilks are gathered from the rocks and shoreline, while conch is harvested by divers. Some divers remove only the meat and leave the shells behind, creating frustration for the next diver who discovers what appears to be a live conch only to find an empty shell.
He also described the fish pots used by local fishermen—baited traps left in the water and checked later, sometimes after an entire weekend. They represent a significant investment, making theft an unfortunate reality for some fishermen. Barracuda can create another problem by entering the traps and consuming much of the catch before they are retrieved.
Before we reached the airport, I asked him where he likes to eat when he’s not cooking at home.
Without hesitation, he recommended Sky’s the Limit and Sandy’s on the French side, along with the famous lolo restaurants in Grand Case and Marigot.
As we pulled up to the terminal, I realized that after asking countless people the same question throughout the week, there wasn’t one universally accepted answer to Sint Maarten’s national dish.
And perhaps that’s exactly what makes the island so fascinating.
Its food, much like its people, is a blend of cultures, traditions, and histories, where soups, seafood, Johnny cakes, and family recipes all tell part of the story.
Departure Day and One of the Best Airport Experiences I’ve Ever Had
By the time we arrived at the airport, I expected the usual stress that often comes with air travel.
Instead, I found one of the most pleasant airport experiences I’ve ever had.
From the moment we entered the terminal, everything felt easy and unhurried. There was only one person ahead of us in the security line, and immigration was fully automated, allowing us to move through the process in just minutes. Even travelers who arrived much later for the same noon departure seemed to make it through without any difficulty.
The terminal itself was clean, beautifully maintained, and surprisingly enjoyable to explore. Rather than the typical assortment of generic souvenirs, many of the shops offered thoughtfully selected local products that reflected the character of the island.
I couldn’t resist bringing home a Caribbean cookbook that immediately inspired me with new recipe ideas, along with a mango and passion fruit scented lotion that has since become one of my favorite fragrances.
As a dog lover, another small detail made me smile: seeing clearly marked signs for a dog relief area. It was such a thoughtful amenity and another example of the care that seemed to go into the airport’s design.
For many travelers, an airport is simply a place to pass through. For me, it often becomes the final impression of a destination.
Princess Juliana International Airport left an excellent one.
Efficient, clean, thoughtfully designed, and remarkably relaxed, it reflected everything I had come to appreciate about Sint Maarten throughout the week. From the virtually nonexistent security lines and automated immigration process to the welcoming atmosphere and carefully curated shops, every part of the experience felt organized without being hurried.
It was the perfect ending to a vacation that exceeded every expectation and left me already looking forward to returning.
Practical Ways We Saved Money in Sint Maarten
One of the biggest lessons I learned during our week in Sint Maarten is that you don’t have to spend extravagantly to have an incredible Caribbean vacation.
A little planning, a willingness to balance splurges with simpler meals, and a few practical decisions helped us enjoy the island without feeling like we were constantly overspending.
Here are the tips I would share with anyone planning a similar trip.
- Book accommodations with a kitchen and a full-size refrigerator.
This was probably the best decision we made. Our villa at Simpson Bay Resort had a full kitchen with a stove, refrigerator, and dishwasher, giving us the freedom to prepare simple meals whenever we wanted. It also meant we could store leftovers instead of throwing them away, turning one night’s dinner into the next day’s snack. - Choose a resort that includes breakfast(if you are not at an all-inclusive resort).
Complimentary breakfast can save a surprising amount of money. Our buffet included Johnny cakes, scrambled eggs, boiled eggs, sausage, toast, pancakes, French toast, oatmeal, and Mexican specialties like chilaquiles. On several mornings we ate around 10:30 or 10:45 a.m., making breakfast substantial enough that we didn’t need lunch. - If you’re traveling with young adults, don’t wait for everyone to be ready.
While my daughters were getting dressed and putting on makeup—which could easily take a couple of hours—I enjoyed my own breakfast in the villa. Most mornings I had an egg, avocado, and whole-grain toast, allowing me to start the day without getting hungry or impatient. - Shop where the locals shop rather than at markets near the resort.
One of the biggest mistakes we made was buying groceries close to our hotel shortly after arriving. Later, while driving through the French side, we stopped at a neighborhood grocery store and were amazed at how much cheaper everything was. Bottled water, butter, snacks, drinks, and pantry staples all cost significantly less. - Bring a few pantry staples from home if you’re staying somewhere with a kitchen.
If I were making this trip again, I would pack:- tea bags
- a small bag of rice
- dried seasonings
- black pepper
- powdered creamer or powdered milk
- favorite snacks
- ginger candies
- motion sickness snacks
- Buy bottled water in bulk as soon as you arrive.
Our resort provided only two complimentary bottles of water each day for four people. We quickly bought larger bottles and six-packs from the supermarket and kept them in the villa refrigerator. I also made sure everyone carried water with them throughout the day, saving money at beach bars and restaurants while staying hydrated in the Caribbean heat. - Bring your favorite breakfast items if possible.
Since I’ve started eating avocado regularly, I bought eggs and avocados on the island but packed my preferred whole-grain bread from New York. Starting the day with a familiar breakfast helped me feel satisfied while waiting for the rest of the family to get ready and saved me from purchasing additional meals before they were ready to leave. - Balance upscale restaurants with local favorites.
My eldest daughter loves researching restaurants with outstanding reviews and beautiful aesthetics, often without paying much attention to the cost. I’m usually the one thinking about the budget. Together, we found a balance. We enjoyed memorable meals at Kalatua and Avantika while also discovering affordable gems like Rosie’s Snack Bar and Captain D’s Roadside Grill. Looking back, some of my favorite meals were also among the least expensive. - Share meals whenever portions are generous.
At Avantika, three entrées and three appetizers comfortably fed the five of us. Sharing dishes not only saved money but also allowed everyone to taste more of the menu. - Don’t be afraid to cook one simple meal.
After spending the day on our boat excursion to Anguilla, I was exhausted. Rather than going out again, I made a quick pot of chicken and rice using fresh chicken legs, homemade green seasoning, butter, black pepper, salt, and rice. Served with fresh arugula, it became one of my favorite meals of the entire vacation. Later in the week, I cooked another batch to pack for our trip home, proving once again how useful having a kitchen can be. - Pack medications and personal essentials before you leave home.
We learned this lesson the hard way. On Sunday afternoon we spent nearly thirty minutes searching for pain medication, only to discover that many pharmacies and businesses had already closed. I recommend bringing pain relievers, stomach medication, seasickness remedies, allergy medicine, bandages, prescriptions, and any other essentials you regularly use. - Travel outside major holiday weekends if you can.
We visited over Memorial Day weekend, which made flights and accommodations more expensive. Traveling during the shoulder season or outside peak holidays can often save money while providing a quieter experience. - Bring snacks on boat excursions.
Before our tour to Anguilla, I packed ginger snacks from home. They ended up helping several passengers who became seasick during the journey. Crackers, granola bars, ginger chews, bottled water, and motion sickness remedies are all worth packing for longer excursions.
Looking back, none of these decisions dramatically changed the cost of our vacation on their own. Together, however, they allowed us to spend wisely where it mattered, save where we could, and enjoy an unforgettable week in Sint Maarten and Saint Martin without feeling like we had to compromise the experience. Sometimes, the smartest travel decisions aren’t about spending less—they’re about spending intentionally.
Quick Recap: Places We Enjoyed Eating in Sint Maarten and Saint Martin
If you’re planning a visit, here are a few of the places we enjoyed during our week on the island:
- Rosie’s Snack Bar – My personal favorite for its comforting, home-style grilled chicken, grilled ribs, and rice and peas. It reminded me so much of the food I grew up eating in Trinidad.
- Captain D’s Roadside Grill – A great place to sample local favorites like Johnny cakes, accras, jerk chicken, stewed oxtail, macaroni pie, curry conch, and hearty Caribbean cooking while learning more about Sint Maarten’s food culture.
- Kalatua – A stylish Mediterranean-inspired beach club overlooking Mullet Bay Beach with fresh seafood, beautiful décor, and an upscale atmosphere.
- Rainbow Café – Worth visiting for the ambience, beachfront location, and overall experience on the French side of the island.
- Avantika – One of our favorite dinners, serving excellent Thai cuisine with generous portions, friendly service, and flavors comparable to some of the best Thai restaurants we’ve enjoyed in New York.
- Boomerang Boat Tour BBQ Lunch – Included grilled curry chicken, grilled garlic shrimp, Greek pasta salad, garlic bread, fresh fruit, and brownies while exploring the beautiful waters around Anguilla.
Every one of these experiences added something different to our trip, proving that some of the best memories come from balancing local gems with special splurges.
Final Reflections: An Island That Slowly Won Me Over
Some vacations are remembered for a famous landmark or a single unforgettable attraction. This one will be remembered for something much simpler.
It was the conversations.
The taxi driver who patiently explained why Johnny cakes remain a staple during hurricane season and why conch and wilks soup are still cherished by many locals. The woman selling swim cover-ups on Mullet Bay Beach who shared stories about her family, her daily routine, and the meals she prepared at home. Denzel proudly showing me the barbecue at Rosie’s Snack Bar before we had even set foot on the beach. The co-owner of Captain D’s Roadside Grill, Mrs. Brenda Arrundell, taking the time to explain what she believes truly represents the food of Sint Maarten.
Those conversations gave me a deeper appreciation for the island than any guidebook ever could.
As a Caribbean food blogger, I arrived hoping to discover new dishes and local flavors. I left with a much greater appreciation for the people behind the food—the fishermen, home cooks, restaurant owners, taxi drivers, and vendors who continue to preserve their traditions while welcoming visitors from around the world.
I also came to appreciate something else.
Space.
Space to breathe. Space to slow down. Space to enjoy a meal without feeling rushed. Even during Memorial Day weekend, the beaches never felt overwhelmingly crowded, the roads were manageable, and from the peaceful mornings at Simpson Bay Resort to one of the smoothest airport experiences I’ve ever had, the entire week unfolded at a pace that allowed us to truly enjoy where we were.
Will I return?
Without hesitation.
Not because every meal was perfect or every restaurant exceeded my expectations, but because Sint Maarten and Saint Martin surprised me in the best possible way. They reminded me that some of the most memorable vacations aren’t necessarily the ones you’ve dreamed about for years. Sometimes they’re the ones you almost didn’t take.
As much as I enjoyed the beaches, restaurants, and scenery, it was the kindness of the people I met along the way that I’ll remember most. From Denzel in the parking lot, to Natasha and Candy on Mullet Bay Beach, Brenda Arrundell at Captain D’s Roadside Grill, and Jamai on our drive to the airport, each conversation added another layer to my understanding of the island. They didn’t just point me toward good food—they shared their stories, traditions, and a little piece of the place they call home.
If you’re looking for an island where you can enjoy beautiful beaches, discover authentic Caribbean flavors, experience two cultures in one destination, and return home with wonderful memories, a greater appreciation for Caribbean culture, and a few great stories to tell, Sint Maarten and Saint Martin deserve a place on your travel list.
For our family, this won’t be the last visit.
And for me, it’s just the beginning of sharing the remarkable food, people, and stories that make the Caribbean so special.
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